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Pruning by Season

Prune in Winter only:
• Oak – Removed desired or broken branches.

Prune in late Winter:
• Hawthorn – Prune to shape; prune suckers anytime.
• Holly – Little pruning needed; can prune in winter.
• Plum – Cut young wood back to within 2 or 3 buds of old branches.

Prune in early Spring:
• Buckthorn – Prune to shape.
• Burning Bush – Prune as needed to maintain shape and size.
• Butterfly Bush – Cut back hard before bloom.
• Clethra – Prune if necessary.
• Redtwig Dogwood – Cut back 1/3 of oldest branches to 6-12” from ground to help maintain red coloration.
• Ginkgo – Prune only as necessary.
• Hemlock – Trim back any dieback on tips.
• Hibiscus – Prune back heavily now (if you are going to do so.)
• Hydrangea (Annabelle) – Cut back to 12-24″ from the ground. Keeping last year’s sturdy growth will help make
the plant more upright and more sturdy.
• Hydrangea (Endless Summer) – Start watering well; wait until new growth appears; wait until you know the
branch is dead before removing.
• Hydrangea (Panicle) – Prune as needed.
• Roses – Prune as buds are beginning to swell. Be sure to cut on a slant above a bud.
• Smokebush – Prune hard to induce strong shoots with large leaves.
• Spirea – Prune to shape before shrub leafs out or rejuvenate prune by cutting back to 3” from ground.
• Sweetspire – Remove damaged wood.
• Winterberry – Trim lightly as growth begins in spring.
• Witchhazel – Little pruning needed. Can prune during flowering if desired.

Prune in mid-Spring:
• Pines/Spruce – To maintain size, remove ½ of new growth (the “candle”) in the spring.

Prune after flowering:
• Azalea – Little pruning needed. To form tight compact bush, snip off end of new sprouts. Fertilize with acid type
product.
• Chokeberry – Prune to size and remove any damaged branches.
• Crabapples – Prune as needed. Only fertilize in spring or early summer.
• Daphne – Prune to shape or to remove dead wood.
• Dogwood (Pagoda) – Prune only if necessary.
• Forsythia – Prune to shape as needed; rejuvenate prune (cut back some of the oldest branches to the ground.) • • Fothergilla – Only prune if necessary (very slow growers.)
• Kerria – Cut out old wood; can prune to ground to maintain shape.
• Lilac – Cut back high-growing shoots by 1/3 to ½ immediately after flowering. Remove weak growth from bush
interior.
• Magnolia – Only prune if necessary.
• Pear – Prune to maintain shape.
• Quince – Prune to maintain desired size and to keep center of plant open.
• Redbud – Prune only if necessary.
• Rhododendron – Little pruning needed. To form tight compact bush, snip off end of new sprouts. Fertilize with
acid type product.
• Serviceberry – Prune to shape only.
• Sandcherry – Little pruning needed. Viburnum – Prune as needed (remove suckers at any time.)
• Weigela – May need heavy pruning to get rid of deadwood and winter injury. Cut back previous year’s growth to
new shoots.

Prune in June or July:
• Cotoneaster (Upright) – Prune after growth spurt is completed.
• Juniper – Prune after growth spurt. Avoid cutting in dead zone or center of plant.
• Sumac – Prune after growth spurt.

Prune in July and August:
• Hornbeam – Prune only to retain tree form to retain rugged natural, appearance. IF it has been tightly pruned on
a regular basis in the past, you may continue to do so. (But you can’t switch pruning methods back and forth.)
• Privet – Prune into hedge effect after flowering is complete

Prune in Summer and Fall:
• Beech – Prune only to remove dead or damaged wood.
• Gray Dogwood – Suckers naturally to form colony. Prune only if necessary.

Prune in Late Summer:
• Birch – Prune in late summer to avoid bleeding. Do not remove papery bark. Apply additional water regularly. • •
Honeylocust – Prune as needed; try to keep central leader as long as possible.
• Hydrangea (Bigleaf) – Only prune after flowering, as buds are formed on old wood.
• Maple – Prune in late summer to avoid bleeding.

Prune in Summer, Fall or Winter:
• Ash – Prune lower limbs to force growth upward and to enhance natural form of tree.
• Linden – Prune as needed. Prune in Fall: Oakleaf Hydrangea – Prune after flowering only if needed to maintain
shape.

The following can be pruned at any time:
• Arborvitae – Needles around trunk will yellow naturally. Fertilize in spring with acid type product.
• Barberry – Prune to shape.
• Boxwood – Prune individually or sheer to form hedge effect anytime during growing season.
• Yews – Pruning in early spring followed by removing of new growth in summer is best way to maintain tight
shape forms.

Please note that Meyer Landscaping does not provide tree trimming services. Please check your local phone book or the internet for a qualified tree trimming service near you.